vrijdag 15 november 2013

Cats and dogs [edited!]

Edit: I just saw that by some copying and pasting my story was a bit messed up and the order wasn't right... I fixed it now (so you might wanna read the story again ;) ) and.... added pictures!!

Why did I all of a sudden decide to go to Indonesia? Well, while traveling you meet a lot of fellow travelers and exchange experiences, and I heard so many positive stories about Indonesia. When people asked me if I was planning to go there I used to answer "No, I have to do that once on a seperate trip, since it's such a huge country". But after a couple of more positive stories I started thinking about if and when there will be a next possibility for me to travel for a longer time and visit South East Asia again. You never know and since I was close anyway now, I took it into consideration. It feels a bit like tourists from outside Europe wanting to see Europe in 2 or 3 weeks. Indonesia has over 17.000 island which all have a slightly different culture so if you only visit one or two, you haven't really seen Indonesia. But I guess this doesn't mean you shouldn't go there. And secretly, I also liked the idea to change my travel plans just because I can ;)

So I checked flights to Indonesia (not too expensive) and started to read a bit in the Lonely Planet. When I came across 'Cianjur adventure' recommended there, I immediately knew I wanted to go there so I sent an e-mail and when they had accommodation available I confirmed and booked a flight. One of the best decisions so far!

Cianjur is a smaller city in West-Java, a bit higher up in the mountains and not really touristy. I stayed with a local family, of which the man started this homestay after having traveled a lot himself. He has a team of guides which can show you around Cianjur in different tours and for the three days I was staying there I had my private awesome tour guide :) We really became good friends in those days and had a great time! The first day was a tour to a rural village, where farmers live next to a small path up the hills living their simple but happy life. Well they seemed to be very happy, have a smile for every passenger and are extremely welcoming. The bamboo huts that they're living in all have this kind of 'terrace' (or just outside extension of the floor) where passengers can rest for a bit. There are chickens, cats and dogs running around everywhere, often with their babies (here baby animals are born all year around since they don't have a season like spring). I learned a lot about the different trees that are growing there (for spices such as nutmeg, it's why the VOC had been so interested in Indonesia) and food that they are harvesting (rice, brown sugar...) Also the other tours I did were impressive but I won't describe them all here but in stead add some pictures. The people in Cianjur are so surprised to see a 'Bule' (=westerner) here, once saw a priceless face of a little girl after she saw me passing by on the back of a motorbike. They all say 'hello' or 'hey mister' (they don't care if you're a guys or girl ;) ).
Indonesia is clearly less developed than Malaysia. Where in Malaysia everyone drives a car, here everyone has a motorbike and there are much more motorbikes on the road than cars, which makes the traffic quite crazy. Usually there is more than one person on a motorbike or a lot of baggage, once I even saw a whole family with both parents and three kids on one motorbike!

Bamboo hut in the rural village

Rice fields in Cianjur

Floating village
(with also a fish spa, where I put in my feet waiting for the fish to nibble my skin: tickly!)

You can see almost anything carried on a motorbike. In this case bird cages with birds.

After three days I headed to Yogyakarta by train. Had to leave the homestay at 4:30 in the morning, to arrive in Jogja at 3 pm. There I couchsurfed at a girls house in a village just outside Jogja. It was very interesting to stay there since she has such a different life then I do. She is 22, has been married for 3 years and lives together with her husband. Waking up so early became regular for me, since my host usually started her day at 5 (that's after the first prayer). Even if you want to sleep longer you will wake up by the loud prayer of a mosque which is always near (this was the case in Cianjur as well, since Java is mainly Islamic).





My first full day in Jogja I went to the temples of Borobudur, which are actually a Buddhist remainder. I really felt like I was the attraction, in stead of the temples. I think I have been on twenty pictures with random people there and also gave some interviews to school children. Bizarre. 

This day I was so stupid to leave my phone at my hosts house and without a phone I feel disconnected, disarmed, disabled... I didn't arrange a time to meet my host yet and also I would have liked to read some more about the things I was visiting in Jogja that day. Luckily it turned out fine as I found internet, could reach my host and arranged a meeting time and point, and just used tuktuks to bring me to the tourist attractions. The next day my host invited me to a meet up with her friends and after that her family. Such a nice way to really see the daily life of the locals and learn about there customs, culture and religion. I really enjoyed :) I ate rice and fish with my hands for the first time and oh, the real Indonesian bathroom is also interesting. Taking a shower by taking a bucket of (cold) water out of a sort of bath and just shower yourself with it and using a squatting toilet with manual flush were all new to me ;)

A day with my host's family
Her grandma was so cool, she really loved to talk to me although she couldn't really speak English, and I loved to talk to her as well. Before we left she asked me please not to forget her, haha :) Well, I won't.

The next day I was already leaving Jogja and went on a 3 day tour to the Bromo and Ijen vulcanos. Desiana (my host) helped me with booking the tour and I was picked up at the travel agency at 7:30 for an 11 hour ride to the Bromo vulcano. What a trip! The driver drove like crazy in his minivan in which there were me and 3 other tourists (an Australian couple and a Dutch guy). Half of the time he was driving on the right side of the road (while they are supposed to drive left) because he was the fastest on the road. Many times a saw a truck just coming straight to us and so close, before our driver got back to the left side again. I was waiting all the time until we reached the highway, but we never did. There are so many people living in Java that almost everywhere you're in an urban area, with really bumpy roads. I was so glad I survived after all these hours! After a short night of sleep we left the hotel at 3:30 in the morning, to see the view of the Bromo vulcano at sunrise. Well, it was totally worth it! So beautiful! After that we did also climb the active Bromo to have a look into the smoking crater. After another crazy ride of 7 hours to Ijen and again a short night, left at 4 am to climb mount Ijen. On our way up we were guided by one of the miners working down in the crater. They are mining for sulfur under unbelievable conditions. They go down the crater in the sulphur fumes, process the sulfur and walk up with 70-100 kg on their backs, and this twice a day. They carry so much because they are paid by kilogram, 5 cents for every kg. Incredible.

Sunrise near the Bromo vulcano
Three peaks, you can see the smoke coming out of the active Bromo vulcano
Processing sulfur in the Ijen crater
This tour was a bit chaotic for me, as tourists that booked from different travel agencies were put together in the same vans, were split up again and with some others left at the same hotel, so all the time you were in slightly different company. Some people had to pay extra during the trip to include jeep rides, admission fees etc and for others it was included. Since I didn't really know what exactly was included in my tour I just went with the flow and luckily it turned out fine (and I didn't have to pay so many things extra). After Ijen we were dropped at a local bus going to Denpasar, Bali and on this bus only me and one French guy from the tour were left. We got off the bus too early, but luckily we found another bus going the same direction immediately (too bad my French friend left one of his bags in the first bus, but was able to find it back eventually, luckily!).
In Denpasar I met other tourists going to Ubud and we shared a ride. When we arrived, suddenly there was this man trying to convince us to stay at his homestay and showed the rooms to me and an Austrian couple. A bit more luxurious than I really need, but it was really nice to have my own double bed to rest a bit after the hectic tour. And Ubud is beautiful! Very different from Java, since Bali is mainly Hindo, as opposed to the Islamic Java. In the South there is Kuta, the 'Salou for Australians' and I'm happy I didn't go there because apperently it's completely westernized and just a beach/party location. Ubud is a very artistic little place with galleries and nice shops everywhere and if you go outside the center, you can reach the green and quiet rice fields. A real bliss!


So my time in the internet cafe is finished, so I'm finishing my story as well. I'm sorry, it's again a blogpost without pictures since the internet was too slow to upload them in time. Hope they will follow soon!

zondag 3 november 2013

Refreshing Cameron Highlands and some pictures

I promised you some pictures, so let's start with that.

Petronas twin towers, Kuala Lumpur

Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur

Many monkeys on the stairs up to Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur. Be careful, they might steal your bag or your food / ice cream ;)
Dutch square, Melaka

Can you read it? Grave in Melaka

Sunset in Langkawi

There's a lot of street art in Georgetown, Penang
Also Penang has some nice beaches. Batu Ferrenghi, Penang

Together with my Chinese friend Jen,  who I met in Penang, I went to the Cameron Highlands as I already mentioned in the previous post. Next day, we were joining a tour organized by the hostel with some Canadians, an American and a British.

Indian food is the best! Lunch with Jen in Penang

We were picked up in the morning with a minivan, by our amazing tour guide. He was such a nice guy! First thing in the morning (and I woke up late so hadn't eaten any breakfast) was a hike through the jungle to see a Rafflesia flower. This is the biggest flower in the world, and blossoms for approximately one week. To reach the flower we had to cross muddy rivers, climb under and over trees and try not to fall down on slippery paths, but we made it!

Rafflesia flower, Cameron Highlands 

Drinking bamboo water - very clean and refreshing, Cameron Highlands
After the jungle trekking we were dropped off at a Chinese restaurant for a well deserved lunch (we were all so hungry!). We also ordered 'strawberry white coffee', so good!
Our next stop was at the tea plantation, tea factory and tea house, after that a visit to the butterfly and reptile farm and after that we even had time to go to a strawberry farm before returning to the hostel. A full day of new experiences :D

Tea plantation, Cameron Highlands
Now I'm back at KL for just this afternoon. Actually I decided to change my plans and go to Indonesia, because during my travels I heard so many nice stories about Indonesia! First I thought I would need much more time for Indonesia since it is so big, and I would like to visit it once on a seperate trip, but since you never know when your next opportunity will be to travel for a longer time, I decided just to go there now. My flight to Jakarta leaves tomorrow at 7:50 so I have to be at the airport very early. Because of this, because I ran out of cash money and don't want to go to the ATM again and because I'd like to try it once, I'll go to the airport tonight and just sleep there. Curious how this will be.




vrijdag 1 november 2013

Malaysia

It's been a while since my last Blogpost so I haven't told anything yet about Malaysia. Before I thought I would fly to Borneo soon after my arrival in Kuala Lumpur (KL), but I met fellow couchsurfers for a daytrip to Melaka and a group of friends going to the island Langkawi and Penang that I could join, so actually I am still in the peninsula / mainland of Malaysia. But I enjoy being so flexible and traveling in a relaxed pace.

My first impression of Malaysia was not very good, as on my way to my hostel I was followed by half-toothless man who grabbed my ass and asked me what I costed, but the people I met later proved that this was just bad luck and not representative for the country.

KL is just a big city with some very tall buildings, many many cars (the Malaysians never walk), almost no sideways and an all year round hot climate. It has huge fancy shopping malls, the famous Petronas twin towers, but also shabby apartments, many street sellers and brown-yellowish rivers. Quite different from Japanese cities.

I liked Melaka better. This is a smaller town with all touristic spots within walking distance from each other and an interesting history. The Portuguese, Dutch and British all left their mark, for example in the form of 'Stadthuys' at Dutch square. Together with a German girl and Malaysian guy (always useful to have a local with you ;)) we explored the city, tried some nice dishes and did some shopping.

In Malaysia there are 3 main ethnic groups. The Malay (Muslim in general), the Indians and the Chinese. This is why you can find Chinese temples, mosques and hindu temples. Also you can find each of the population's food or unique mixtures.

In KL I met a Nigerian guy who could show me KL's nightlife, and I especially liked the fancy sky bar at the 36th (?) floor with a swimming pool inside (unfortunately not allowed to swim there when the bar is openes) and a nice view on the twin towers. With him and his friends I flew to Langkawi which is an island with tax free status (so they came there just to party and enjoy cheap alcohol) but during the day I wanted to see more of the island so an hour after I left the hostel I was actually sitting on the back of a motorbike with an Italian guy. These are things you only experience when you travel alone :)
We checked out some nice beaches but I also just enjoyed riding around, since the breeze was quite refreshing.

From langkawi I took the ferry to Penang, famous for its food and street art and a very enjoyable island. I met some nice fellow travelers, watched a beautiful sunset at the beach and ended up in the reggae bar 3 nights in a row. From Penang I took a minivan (we thought it would be a big bus but turned out not to be) to Cameron Highlands, together with a Chinese girl. Here its much cooler, only around 20 degrees and I very much like it for a change. Tomorrow we're doing a kind of adventure tour so hope to see more of the area then. Tonight I've just visited the might market (everywhere they have night markets and in general lively nightlife, just as the fact that they van a little India and a Chinatown in every reasonably sized city). "nice for you" "shopping" "come have a look" "I can make discount for you" "cheap cheap" is what you hear everywhere when walking through the nightmarket. Copied dvd's and fake Louis vuitton bags (or any other famous brand stuff) is what you can see everywhere.

The hostels here are quite simple, but luckily quite clean as well. Most of them don't have computers for guests to use so I haven't had the chance to upload any photos yet as I still only have them on my camera. But I promise I'll try to upload some soon!

Wonder how you all are, back in Holland or anywhere else. Hope you all survived the storm?